Few names in the wine world evoke a sense of legacy, craftsmanship, and tradition like Marchesi di Barolo. Nestled deep in Piedmont’s heart, this iconic winery is more than just a producer of Barolo - it’s a living testament to the region’s rich history and evolution. Sitting down with Marchesi di Barolo’s winemaker, Davide Abbona, felt like stepping into a timeline where every bottle tells a story of heritage, terroir, and an unwavering respect for tradition.
Carrying the Torch of Barolo’s Legacy
With roots reaching back over two centuries, Marchesi di Barolo is a cornerstone of the Barolo DOCG region. During our conversation, one thing stood out: Davide’s reverence for tradition, coupled with a drive to preserve what makes Barolo singular and timeless. He spoke with great passion about their responsibility to connect each vintage to its origins - an act of respect, but also an evolution.
To me, even glancing at Marchesi di Barolo’s labels from the 60s through the 80s feels like a nostalgic journey through time. Though their labels have since evolved with a more modern aesthetic, the essence of that history still lives on in every bottle. This isn’t about clinging to the past; it’s about translating history in a way that stays relevant in today’s dynamic wine landscape.
Terroir as a Guiding Compass
Barolo’s magic starts with its terroir, and Marchesi di Barolo remains deeply committed to capturing this essence in their wines. Each vineyard plot holds a story shaped by its soil, microclimate, and altitude. Davide explained how they let each parcel shine on its own terms, using a careful touch to highlight what nature gives. No heavy-handed intervention - just a devotion to allowing the land to speak for itself.
This terroir-driven approach means that the wines reflect both the region’s soul and the thoughtful care of those who cultivate it. It’s about embracing the land’s rhythm rather than imposing a rigid vision, resulting in wines that are honest reflections of Piedmont’s character.
Bridging Tradition and Modernity
Davide and I spoke at length about how Marchesi di Barolo balances tradition and modernity - a dance between old-world practices and new-world innovation. While deeply rooted in time-honoured methods, the winery is unafraid to evolve where it benefits quality and sustainability. It’s a balance that ensures their wines stay true to their origins while remaining vibrant in a changing world.
For example, modern vineyard management and winemaking techniques (such as partial new oak) are deployed to tackle challenges like climate change and shifting market tastes - yet never at the cost of losing what makes Marchesi di Barolo distinct. It’s about progress with integrity.
I would like to thank Ferrari Food + Wine for setting up this interview. You can also watch this video on Youtube.
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